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Eiger / Matterhorn Ascent Weeks The Eiger and the Matterhorn are two of the most sought after summits in the Alps. If you have previous experience on alpine grade AD terrain with good physical fitness, they are within your grasp! We aim to climb one of these famous peaks towards the end of the week, after suitable preparation. Let us know which one you fancy! We spend the first 3 days/2 nights acclimatising and training in the mountains around Chamonix. Our training climbs are quality routes in their own right eg: Eperon Sublime on the Aig de Floria, Cosmiques Arete, traverse of the Entreves. The final choice will depend on what routes around Chamonix you have done before - let us know on your booking form! Wednesday morning we drive to Zermatt or Grindlewald and go to our mountain hut to be in position for the main event. We have a spare day built in, in case of bad weather, which maximises our chance of success... Meet We meet Saturday evening (day 0) at 6pm in Chamonix to deal with any equipment rental and run through the plan for the week. The climbing starts on Sunday and we finish in Chamonix Friday afternoon and recommend you book your return flight on Saturday morning. The Matterhorn We climb the Matterhorn via the classic Hornli ridge. Dry conditions and little snow are required to make this route feasible, as it is a long day of tricky scrambling (upto 4500m) requiring full concentration for 8 or more hours. Brilliant but not to be under estimated! The Eiger We climb the Eiger via the classic South Ridge. This too is a long climb (10 hours or more) on on delicate terrain - snow ridges, rock ridges and scrambling. Like the matterhorn this mountain also requires fairly dry conditions for an ascent. Chalet Accommodation When staying in Chamonix, we stay in one of our comfortable Adventure Base Chalets, literally 6 minutes walk from the town centre's restaurants and bars. Breakfast and packed lunch are included leaving the evenings free for you to explore the delights of Chamonix. What to expect from mountain huts They are basic but comfortable. They can cater for vegetarians. Food is usually on a set menu basis (3 course in the evening, hot drink and bread/jam/cereal for breakfast). Often there is no running water and so you have to buy water to drink and wash with (no showers). You can usually buy tea, coffee, wine, beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars and snacks. Sleeping arrangements are normally dormitory style bunkbeds (eg 6 people on the bottom, 6 on the top) with blankets or duvets. You can expect a good atmosphere and a stunning view! Sample Itinerary Day 1 - Warm up on the cosmiques aretes or similar route. Day 2 & 3 - 2 days climbing around, and overnighting in, the Torino hut. Typical routes would be traversing the Entreves, the Tour Ronde and the Dent du Geant. Day 4 - Drive to Grindlewald/Zermatt and walk into Hornli/Monchjoch hut. Day 5 & 6 - climb the Matterhorn or Eiger, returning to Chamonix after the climb. We have a spare day built in to this itinerary to deal with any bad weather and maximise our chance os success. Kit List Ice axe - for general mountaineering Crampons - for general mountaineering with anti-ballingplates Helmet Poles - optional Boots - these must fit and be comfortable. We feel it is best not to rent boots. Rather buy some and have them fitted professionally - this will make your week much more comfortable, fun and blister free! Try and make sure they broken in before the week. They should be high-end insulated leather and must be compatible with your crampons. Rockboots - optional Rucksack - 40-50l Waterbottle 1L - not platypus type - they freeze and leak. Harness, 3 screw gate karabiners, belay device, 1 8-foot sling, 2 prussik loops 2 pairs sunglasses (cat 4), goggles, sunhat, sunscreen, lip salve/block 3 sets socks and light coloured thermal tops Lightweight goretex top/bottoms, warm hat, thick gloves, thin gloves Insulating layers. I use a thin '100' weight fleece and a synthetic duvet jacket. Personal first aid - blister kit, ibuprofen. Head torch and gaiters Book/iPod for spare time at huts Remember kit should be lightweight but functional - you have to carry it! We can help with equipment rental in Chamonix. | Price: £2075 Course Only: £1755 Ratio: 1:2, then 1:1 for summit days Level: Intermediate to Advanced Dates: 18-23 July, 8-13 August | ||||||||||||
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Price includes: guiding, guides expenses, twin share chalet accommodation in central Chamonix on a B&B and packed lunch basis (very convenient!), mountain hut accommodation on a full board basis, in and between resort transport. Price does not include: insurance, travel to/from Chamonix, uplifts, equipment rental, drinks/snacks, evening meals in Chamonix (it's nice to explore the town!) Course Only includes: guiding, guides expenses, 3 nights mountain hut half board accommodation. | |||||||||||||
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Further Information: We will email you detailed 'Joining Instructions' on booking/request. These include advice on training, equipment, clothing, travel, and what to expect. email us: info@dream-guides.com | |||||||||||||
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