Ama Dablam is sometimes called the 'Matterhorn of the Himalayas' and for good reason. It is one of the most eye-catching and stunning peaks you will ever see. Viewable from several sections of the trek to Everest base camp, it tempts people back to climb it every year. It is a relatively technical climb reaching 6856m above sea level and requires significant mountaineering experience to climb. Every November we run a 4 week expedition to climb Ama Dablam and it is open to those climbers with experience of climbing at 'AD' alpine standard and preferably with experience of altitude to 6000m.
Who is it for?
This is a technical climb at high altitude and will appeal to any experienced mountaineer wanting to climb a stunning peak, in a stunning location with views to match! Whilst fixed ropes help safeguard progress, one should not underestimate the effects of exposure, climbing at altitude and the
difficulties of technical climbing in this environment. You need to be able to climb alpine standard ‘AD’ routes involving rock, ice and mixed ground and be confident with ropework such as abseiling. Previous experience using fixed ropes is not essential as we teach this during the trip, but familiarity
with rock/ice climbing technique and ropework is highly recommended. We will need to see a resume of your climbing experience before you can join this trip.
Ama Dablam SW ridge is the classic route to the summit and is no pushover! Our strategy for the climb will depend on the team and to make sure we are well acclimatised. Once at base camp we will review ‘fixed-rope techniques’ before embarking on several forays up the lower mountain to acclimatise and get some climbing done. We usually establish 3 camps (advanced basecamp 5400m, 5700m, 6300m) on the route to break the
route up into manageable chunks before our summit attempt. Technical difficulties and exposure start to kick in a little above advanced BC (5400m) and are fairly sustained throughout the climb!
Good quality fixed rope/anchors will be established to safeguard progress over technical sections and you can expect several pitches of UK Severe/VS and HVS (5.8) as well as scrambling and very narrow snow ridge sections en route to 6300m, the launch pad for the summit. Summit day is predominantly on moderate and steep snow/ice in a fantastic position and you are rewarded with an amazing view over the himalaya including a
number of 8000m peaks. Descending to basecamp involves a lot of down-climbing, as well as abseiling and we usually spend a night in a
high camp on the way down.
How it works
We take the core ingredients of our state of the art Everest expeditions – comfortable base camp, good food, excellent sherpas and leaders – and bring them to Ama Dablam to ensure a safe and successful trip. Our sherpas and leaders will prepare the route (fixing rope and stocking camps) but this is a team expedition and on occasion you may need to carry a small amount of group kit, and ‘muck in’ to help keep things on an even keel.
This is all part of expedition life and part of what makes it so rewarding!
Our sherpas are from Pangboche and are extremely experienced (eg Padawa has summitted Ama Dablam 32 times!). They are the same crew we have on Everest, Manaslu and Cho Oyu. They speak good English and are well versed in mountaineering techniques. Over the years they have become our friends and their enthusiasm, depth of experience and natural ability at high altitude make them a key asset to the success and safety of our expeditions.
Every November we run a 4 week expedition to climb Ama Dablam and it is open to those climbers with experience of climbing at 'AD' alpine standard and preferably with experience of altitude to 6000m.
Please feel free to contact us for more information now or to discuss your application for the team. Both private expeditions and individuals are welcome.