A Matterhorn climb is one of the most sought after challenges in the Alps.
Who is it for?
If you have previous experience on alpine grade AD terrain with good physical fitness, it is within your grasp! We aim to do the Matterhorn climb towards the end of the week, after suitable preparation and acclimatisation.
Our Chamonix Classics and Swiss Classics course are ideal preparation for the Matterhorn climb week.
The Training Climbs
We spend the first 3 days/2 nights acclimatising and training in the mountains around Chamonix. Our training climbs are quality routes in their own right. The final choice will depend on what routes around Chamonix you have done before - let us know!
We have a spare day built in to the itinerary, in case of bad weather, which maximises our chance of success...
The Matterhorn Climb
We climb the Matterhorn via the classic Hornli ridge. Dry conditions and little snow are required to make this route feasible, as it is a long day of tricky scrambling (upto 4500m) requiring full concentration for 8 or more hours. Brilliant but not to be under estimated! The climb starts With an early (3.30am) start from the Hornli hut, descending from the summit by the same route.
If weather/conditions will not allow a Matterhorn climb, then we will climb a suitable alternative.
Saturday: We meet Saturday evening to go through the weather/conditions and plan for the week. You meet your Guides and can ask them any questions...
Sunday: Warm up on the cosmiques aretes or similar route.
Monday - Tuesday: 2 days climbing around, and overnighting in, the Torino hut. Typical routes would be traversing the Entreves, the Tour Ronde and the Dent du Geant. This is the final preparation for the real thing, and great routes in themselves!
Wednesday: Drive to Zermatt and walk to Hornli hut.
Thursday - Friday: Climb the Matterhorn! We return to Chamonix after the climb. We have a spare day built in to this itinerary to deal with any bad weather and maximise our chance of success.
When staying in Chamonix, we stay in one of our comfortable Adventure Base Chalets, literally 6 minutes walk from the town centre's restaurants and bars. Breakfast and packed lunch are included leaving the evenings free for you to explore the delights of Chamonix.
What to expect from mountain huts
They are basic but comfortable. They can cater for vegetarians. Food is usually on a set menu basis (3 course in the evening, hot drink and bread/jam/cereal for breakfast). Often there is no running water and so you have to buy water to drink and wash with (no showers). You can usually buy tea, coffee, wine, beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars and snacks. Sleeping arrangements are normally dormitory style bunkbeds (eg 6 people on the bottom, 6 on the top) with blankets or duvets. The huts provide slippers to wear inside. We ask the hut guardians to prepare a packed lunch for this course. You can expect a good atmosphere and a stunning view!
Local transport in the Chamonix valley/Courmayeur and to Zermatt is included.
*Note: Transport, chalet accommodation and packed lunches are not included in the 'Course Only' price.