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Guy Willett

Fully qualified IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide.

Skiing

I have been skiing for over 25 years and telemarking since 1998. I have skied steeps and couloirs in Montana, Wyoming, Utah, British Columbia, Alaska, Norway, Svalbard, Tibet, Greenland, France, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Recent Telemark highlights would have to include:

• multiple steep telemark descents in the Chugach range in Alaska;

• couloir Cosmique, Aig. du Midi

• couloir Poubelle, Aig.de Bochard

• Gervussuti couloir, Tour Ronde

• Table couloir, Aig du Tour

• col de Cristeaux, Argentiere basin

• Chamonix's Glacier Rond three times in a day.

• South couloir, Aig. de l'Eboulement

• Chevalier couloir

• NW shoulder, Aig. du Tacul

• Skiing unnamed couloirs in arctic Svalbard and neck deep powder in Alta.

• Alladin's Mirror Direct, Coire an T'sneachda in Scotland

• freeheeling from 7100m on Tibet's Cho Oyu

1st British/2nd overall descent of Gunnbjornsfjeld - the '8th summit' and highest in the Arctic

7 first descents in the Watkins mountains of east Greenland

 

Climbing in the Greater Ranges

I have put up several new routes and made first british ascents in the Tien Shan, Karakorum and Alaska. The main highlight of these trips was in 2003, making the first ascent of a major new route on Denali in cutting edge style - a 52 hour lightweight single push. The low point has to be sitting in bad weather for a month in Patagonia the following year. Other highlights include:

• First ascents of the west pillar of Izyskatel and the east face of Ak-Too, in the Tien Shan

• First British ascents of Tienshanski and the north face of Izyskatel, in the Tien Shan.

• West Butress of Denali

• Being stormed off Khan Tengri at 6800m.

• First Ascent of pk 5800 and retreat 100m from the virgin sumit of Hanipispur South (~6200m) in the Choktoi region of Pakistan.

• First ascent of Great White Fright, Father and Sons Wall, Denali

 

Climbing in the Alps

I have climbed over 70 routes in the Alps - the following are highlights.

• North face of the Eiger in winter

• 'Anouk' on the west face of the Petit Jorrasse

• Backrope soloing the west face of the Aiguille de Blaitiere

• 'Pinochio' on Mt Blanc du Tacul

• Supercouloir direct, Mt Blanc du Tacul, in winter

• North face of les Droites in winter in a day

• South Pillar of the Barres des Ecrins

• First British and 3rd overall ascent of Russian Roulette into Gabarou-Silvy, Aiguille Sans Nom, in winter

• Attempted first ascent of 'Borderline' on Aiguille Sans Nom. We completed all the new ground, but had to retreat in a storm below the summit.

 

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