climb mont blanc

Climb Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc (4810m) is the highest peak in western europe. Although an impressive and imposing mountain, it is a very feasible objective if you have a good level of fitness and previous hill walking experience. We teach all the necessary skills to make the ascent during this course.

You can expect several predawn starts during the week (but restful afternoons in the sun), with a 2am start on the Mt Blanc summit day!

Temperatures vary a lot, with below freezing dawn starts to 'roasting' on sunny afternoons. It is not unusual for it to be -10 to -15 degrees on the summit. But the views and relaxing beer in the sun afterwards make it all worthwhile!

We normally climb the Gouter Ridge route up Mt Blanc, giving a variety of climbing styles starting with a 2.5 hr walk to the Tete Rousse hut (lunch), followed by a 600m easy rocky scramble (2.5hrs) to the Gouter hut at 3800m, where we overnight. Summit day starts with glacial slopes and finally an airy, narrow snow ridge to the summit (5hrs up and a long way down!). This route offers the highest success rate!

However, at your guide's discretion, the traverse from the Aig du Midi may be attempted. This traverses over the shoulders of Mt Blanc du Tacul and Mt Maudit before climbing the long summit slopes of Mont Blanc. This is a more demanding undertaking requiring good snow conditions.

Meet: We meet Saturday evening (day 0) at 6pm in Chamonix to deal with any equipment rental and run through the plan for the week. We finish in Chamonix Friday afternoon and recommend you book your return flight on Saturday morning.

Who is it for? Anyone with a good level of endurance fitness and a sense of adventure! Previous mountaineering experience is a bonus, but not necessary as we teach all required skills during the week. Mont Blanc is high and the altitude makes it hard work and so determination is useful to keep going to the top!

Typical Itinerary

Acclimatisation is crucial to success on Mont Blanc and our itinerary has a proven record.

Day1 - walk up to the Albert 1er hut followed by crampon/ice axe instruction in the afternoon. Overnight at the hut. Begin acclimatising. (2.5hrs to the hut)

Day2 - climb the Petit Fourche(3520m) and descend to the Trient hut (overnight).Glacier travel practice. (7hrs)

Day3 - climb the Aig du Tour(3540m) and descend to Chamonix for a well earnt rest. (7hrs)

During this phase we will have acclimatised, climbed two quality peaks and learnt the necessary skills for the main event...

Day4-6 - climbing Mt Blanc takes two days, but we build in a spare day in case of bad weather to maximise the chance of success..

We enjoy an 80-90% summit success rate on this programme, and almost 100% enjoyment rate!

Chalet Accommodation When staying in Chamonix, we stay in one of our comfortable Adventure Base Chalets, literally 6 minutes walk from the town centre's restaurants and bars. Breakfast and packed lunch are included leaving the evenings free for you to explore the delights of Chamonix.

What to expect from mountain huts

They are basic but comfortable. They can cater for vegetarians. Food is usually on a set menu basis (3 course in the evening, hot drink and bread/jam/cereal for breakfast). Often there is no running water and so you have to buy water to drink and wash with (no showers). You can usually buy tea, coffee, wine, beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars and snacks. Sleeping arrangements are normally dormitory style bunkbeds (eg 6 people on the bottom, 6 on the top) with blankets or duvets.

You can expect a good atmosphere and a stunning view!

Kit List

Ice axe - for general mountaineering (at least 60cm long)

Crampons - for general mountaineering with anti-ballingplates

Helmet

Trekking Poles - optional

Boots - these must fit and be comfortable. We feel it is best not to rent boots. Rather buy some and have them fitted professionally - this will make your week much more comfortable, fun and blister free! Try and make sure they broken in before the week. They should either be 'plastic' or high-end insulated leather and must be compatible with your crampons.

Rucksack - 40-50l

Waterbottle 1L - not platypus type - they freeze and leak.

Harness, 2 screw gate karabiners, belay device, 1 8-foot sling

2 pairs sunglasses (cat 4), goggles, sunhat, sunscreen, lip salve/block

3 sets socks and light coloured thermal tops

Lightweight goretex top/bottoms, warm hat, thick gloves, thin gloves

Insulating layers. I use a thin '100' weight fleece and a synthetic duvet jacket.

Personal first aid - blister kit, ibuprofen.

Head torch and gaiters

Book/iPod for spare time in huts

Remember kit should be lightweight but functional - you have to carry it! We can help with equipment rental in Chamonix.

Price: £1390

Course Only: £1095

Ratio: 1:4 then 1:2 for summit days

Level: Intro (but hard work!)

Dates: 13-18 June, 11-16 July, 18-23 July, 8-13 Aug, 22-27 Aug, 5-10 Sept

the best course for you?

Price includes: guiding, guides expenses, twin share chalet accommodation in central Chamonix on a B&B and packed lunch basis (very convenient!), mountain hut accommodation on a full board basis, in resort transport, uplifts.

Price does not include: insurance, travel to/from Chamonix, equipment rental, drinks/snacks, evening meals in Chamonix (it's nice to explore the town!)

Course Only includes: guiding, guides expenses, 4 nights mountain hut half board accommodation.

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Further Information: We will email you detailed 'Joining Instructions' on booking/request. These include advice on training, equipment, clothing, travel, and what to expect.

email us: info@dream-guides.com